Gondar was founded by Emperor Fasilides in 1636, who built the castle and palace in 1640. The town soon became an important centre and remained so until its decline in the 19th century. This was largely reversed by the short period of Italian occupation in the 1930's, when they built most of the newish part of the town. Gondar now has a population of around 68,000, and seemed a pretty lively and interesting, if a bit neglected, place to me. I think it’s fair to say that Gondar was the first town I was to visit on this trip to have what I would call real character. Though its 1930's buildings were all looking a bit tatty, and the area round the market slumish, the hilly location of the town and its well preserved historic parts, made it, for an artist, a most interesting place to be.
 
When I called at the tourist office to to try and get some information on walking in the Simien Mountains, the officer was so pleased at my visit that he first made me a cup of tea. Then, after providing the information I needed, he locked up his office and took me on a conducted tour of the Old Palace, nearby. This included a climb to the top of the building, which offered some fine views of the town below. Although I had to pay around £1.20 to enter the compound he never asked for anything for himself, but when his tour was over he just left me to paint the picture above. I was most grateful to him for what had been a very instructive commentary." - MH