"This strategic outpost, built in 1372, was situated on the old silk route at the western tip of the Great Wall. In its day it had assumed an imposing and menacing stance between the snow capped Qilian Mountains and the Black Mountains. After the decline of the silk road traffic in the 15th century the stronghold was used by the ruling class as a toll house to extort money from people engaged in inland trade.
At the time of my visit the fort was in the process of being extensively restored and had a small army of workers engaged in this task. There were few other visitors, and I seemed to be the only foreigner. I just thought the setting of this romantic place was a little spoiled by what looked like a large cement works about a mile to the east." - MH