"I only had one night in Bursa and left next afternoon on the bus for Iznik. On route I had to change buses at Yenişehir. This small, unspoiled market town was full of interesting corners to sketch, and seemed just the place I had been hoping to find. It had a small hotel, not fancy, but clean and friendly so I decided to stay two nights. As the hotel had no meals the proprietor introduced me to a small restaurant in a nearby street. The meals, mainly different types of meat and vegetable stews, were all on display, being cooked in large stainless steel pans at a serving counter where all I had to do was paint what I wanted. Bread and drinking water were always supplied on the table. For sweet there was yogurt with sugar or caramel custard with black syrup. At breakfast they would serve bread with a white cheese and tea or hot milk. I found restaurants like this in most towns in Turkey and came to rely on them for the rest of my trip." - MH